Let's take a deep dive into two exceptional timepieces from Cartier, both embodying timeless elegance, technical prowess, and a rich legacy. We’ll explore the Cartier Santos 100 (W20106X8) and the Drive De Cartier Moonphase (WSNM0008), two watches that stand out not just for their aesthetic appeal but also for their compelling stories and practical features.
Cartier Santos
The Cartier Santos is a trailblazer in the world of horology, and its story begins in 1904 with a collaboration between two visionaries: Louis Cartier and Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. Santos-Dumont, frustrated with the impracticality of using a pocket watch while flying, requested a wristwatch from his friend, which would allow him to keep time hands-free. Louis Cartier's response was a flat, square design that not only became a solution to this problem but also the first-ever wristwatch designed specifically for men. This innovation fundamentally shifted the way watches were worn.
Fast forward to 2004, Cartier released the Santos 100 to celebrate the 100th anniversary of this iconic model. The Santos 100 stays true to the legacy of the original with a square case, industrial-style screws, and a leather strap. Available in two sizes—41mm for the large model and 35.6mm for the medium—the watch wears larger than its dimensions suggest due to its robust design and presence on the wrist. This medium-sized model is particularly versatile, appealing to both men and women.
The aesthetic of the Santos 100 is unmistakably Cartier, featuring a clean white dial with bold black Roman numerals, inspired by the Art Deco movement. These numerals radiate across the dial, making it extremely easy to read at a glance. Look closely at the Roman numeral for 7 o’clock, and you'll find Cartier’s signature hidden within the "V" of the seven—a subtle yet distinctive mark of authenticity. The blue cabochon in the crown is another hallmark of Cartier’s refined design, offering a pop of color that contrasts beautifully with the black and white tones of the watch.
In terms of performance, the Santos 100 is powered by a high-grade ETA automatic movement, which is known for its reliability and ease of service compared to more exclusive in-house movements. This makes maintenance more accessible, especially for collectors who value longevity and functionality. The leather strap is alligator, adding a luxurious touch while the deployant clasp—an invention credited to Cartier—ensures a secure and elegant fit.
The Santos 100 is the epitome of versatility. It blends sportiness with elegance, making it equally suited for formal occasions or casual settings. Its design, while rooted in history, has a contemporary feel that makes it a relevant choice even in today’s fast-evolving watch market.
Drive De Cartier Moonphase
For those seeking something a little more refined and unique, the Drive De Cartier Moonphase offers an entirely different, yet equally captivating, experience. Launched in 2016 and discontinued in 2022, this timepiece had a relatively short production run, making it a rare find for collectors and enthusiasts alike.
The Drive De Cartier is instantly recognizable by its cushion-shaped case—a perfect balance between round and square that gives it a sophisticated, timeless appeal. Measuring 40mm, the watch wears larger due to its case shape and low profile, sitting comfortably on the wrist at just 12.2mm in height. The design is inspired by vintage automobiles, a nod to the elegance and craftsmanship of classic cars. The guilloché dial evokes the look of old radiator grilles, while the crown, shaped like a bolt, adds a subtle mechanical touch, reminiscent of the bolts used in early car manufacturing.
One of the key features of this particular model is the moonphase complication, which replaces the date function found in other Drive models. The moonphase adds a romantic touch to the otherwise clean and simple dial, offering a whimsical display of the lunar cycle. The symmetry of the dial is enhanced by the lack of a seconds hand, which some may find polarizing, but it’s a design choice that prioritizes visual harmony. The stark black Roman numerals and blued steel hands against the white background ensure excellent legibility from any angle.
The Drive De Cartier Moonphase is powered by the in-house calibre 1904-LU, a movement designed for precision with a double barrel for improved accuracy and a 48-hour power reserve. This calibre is both reliable and aesthetically pleasing, a testament to Cartier’s commitment to blending technical excellence with artistic design.
The watch comes on a formal alligator strap, secured with a Cartier deployant clasp. One of the notable features of Cartier’s deployant clasps is the absence of visible holes in the strap, as the excess leather tucks neatly inside, ensuring a clean, polished look on the wrist. With a lug width of 20mm, strap changes are possible for those who wish to personalize their watch further, although it may require a bit of courage to make the change.
While the Drive De Cartier isn’t a sports watch, with a water resistance of just 30 meters, it’s more than adequate for daily wear and occasional splashes. Its formality, combined with its distinct case shape and moonphase complication, makes it a fantastic choice for those who prefer a dressier, more elegant option without sacrificing the legacy of Cartier’s design excellence.
Conclusion
Both the Cartier Santos 100 and the Drive De Cartier Moonphase represent incredible value for money, especially considering their under £4,000 price tag. These watches not only showcase Cartier’s rich history and iconic designs but also offer exceptional functionality and versatility. Whether you’re drawn to the sportier, more robust nature of the Santos 100 or the refined elegance of the Drive De Cartier Moonphase, each watch stands as a testament to Cartier’s mastery in watchmaking and design. For any enthusiast or collector, these timepieces are an unbeatable choice at this price point, offering a perfect blend of heritage, style, and technical precision.