Rainbow watches–it’s the trend nearly every major brand is participating in nowadays, often featuring bezels and dials bejeweled in a colorful array of sparkling gemstones. Even if you aren’t on board with the flashy trend, it’s hard to deny how magnificent a perfectly executed gem-set watch can be and, of course, how exclusive they often are, thanks to their unobtainable price tags. But where did the industry’s relatively new affinity for rainbow watches originate, and what are some of the most recent remarkable rainbow watches to hit the market? Let’s explore the topic further.
Rainbow Rolex Daytona
First, allow me to take you back to 2012 and the debut of the most famous rainbow watch of all time – the Rainbow Rolex Daytona. Rolex unveiled the watch at Baselworld 2012, giving collectors the option of either a white gold (ref. 116599RBOW) or yellow gold (ref. 116598RBOW) model. The Daytona glittered with nearly 100 diamonds and gems, each handset by expert Rolex gemologists. The lugs and crown guards were decorated with brilliant-cut diamonds, and the bezel featured a rainbow of baguette-cut stones, carefully sized to fit together with the utmost precision.
The Rainbow Daytona was met with mixed reviews upon its release, and it was discontinued after a few years. Some thought of it as garish and excessive, while others appreciated it for its luxurious design set and its potential as a serious collector’s item because of its uniqueness and limited production run. Nonetheless, Rolex released another edition of the Rainbow Daytona in 2018, in the brand’s proprietary 18k rose gold everrose (ref. 116595RBOW) featuring the same gem set bezel. Instead of diamonds at each hour, the second-generation Rainbow Daytona dials feature sapphire baguettes in a rainbow gradient. Pavé diamond dials and diamond-encrusted center links were new options as well.
In 2022, the 116599 RBOW and 116598 RBOW returned, with the same subtle updates the Everose gold version received four years prior. So, for one year, the Rainbow Daytona was offered in all three colors of gold. But with its astronomical six-figure price tag and unconventional design set, the Rolex Rainbow Daytona never had the hallmarks of a watch with staying power. It was quietly discontinued in 2023, adding to its rarity and further bolstering its status as a grail watch and its potential as one of the most expensive Rolex watches on the secondary market.
Now that even the most die-hard watch collectors have had a chance to warm up to the idea of a flashy gem-encrusted edition of the otherwise masculine and precision-driven Daytona, we’ve seen its popularity spike. As a result, other brands are jumping on the rainbow bandwagon, so to speak, and releasing their own variations. With this emerging trend, we’re seeing a fabulous offering of rainbow watches in a diverse selection of styles unique to each brand.
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” model, released in 2022, is a significant addition to the Aquanaut collection, especially within the context of luxury watches tailored for women. Known for its distinctive rounded octagonal case and the sporty yet refined aesthetic, the Aquanaut has long been a staple of Patek Philippe's lineup, offering a contemporary alternative to the more traditional Nautilus.
The “Rainbow” model takes this design ethos further with a slightly larger 39.9mm case, which is unusual for a women’s watch but necessary to accommodate its stunning bezel. This bezel features a double row of diamonds and rainbow sapphires, making it a showstopper in any collection. The larger case size not only accommodates the gem-set bezel but also houses the self-winding mechanical chronograph movement—a first for the Aquanaut Luce collection, which previously relied on quartz movements. This shift to a mechanical movement is a nod to the brand's commitment to horological excellence, even in models traditionally marketed towards women.
The ref. 7968/300R, with its white mother-of-pearl dial and rose gold accents, exemplifies Patek Philippe's ability to blend luxury with sportiness. The use of colorful sapphires to mark the hours, matching the rainbow gradient of the bezel, adds a playful yet sophisticated touch. The inclusion of rubber straps in red, matte beige, and matte white further reinforces the watch’s versatility and contemporary appeal, making it a fashionable yet functional piece for a modern lifestyle.
This model stands out not only as a statement piece but also as a symbol of Patek Philippe’s evolving approach to women’s watches, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern aesthetics and technical innovation.
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