To understand why Rolex has so much sway over the industry and the trends therein, we have to go back to the beginning, back to the dawn of the 20th century and into the mind of a young entrepreneur, who believed he had struck upon an idea that would put his fledgling company on the map.
Rolex was founded in 1902 by hans Wilsdorf and his brother-in-law Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf and Davis. He founded the watch making company in London where they specialised in importing Hermann Aegler's quality movements and then placing them in quality watch cases made by companies such as Dennison. The duo distributed the timepieces to jewellers that added their names to the wristwatches. Some of the earliest watches produced were often stamped with "W&D" on the inside of the caseback.
Rolex Brand is Created
1908 was a big year for the company. Wilsdorf registered "Rolex" as a trademark and opened their first Switzerland office in La Chaux-de-Fonds. It has been said that Wilsdorf wanted his brand to be easy to pronounced in any language. The word "Rolex" was also said to sound like a watch being wound according to Wilsdorf.
In 1910, thanks to Wilsdorf's high standards and the excellence of Maison Aegler's output, a Rolex wristwatch became the first wristwatch to be awarded an independently ratified certificate of chronometric performance (meaning the watch was unbiasedly judged to be a superlative timekeeper). The first such test took place in Bienne in Switzerland, nearby Maison Aegler.
A Rolex watch was awarded a Class A precision certificate by the Kew Obervatory in 1914. This was an exciting distinction considering that normally the award was given exclusively to marine chronometers. It was the very first time a wristwatch had achieved this honor in England and paved the way for Rolex to become one of the most respected brands in the world for its chronometric performance.
But Hans Wilsdorf was not satisfied with just timekeeping excellence. When he established his company in 1905, he had set out with a very clear goal: to produce watches that were able to accompany their owner through the adventure of life. Although his watches kept excellent time throughout static chronometer tests, Wilsdorf wanted to ensure that they would continue to perform their primary function no matter their environment.
Wartime taxes imposed on luxury items caused Wilsdorf to leave England in 1919. The levies on silver and gold, which were metals that were used in the production of Rolex watches, became too costly. Wilsdorf decided it would be beneficial to relocate to Geneva so that he could work more closely with his suppliers in Bienne. The Rolex brand moved with Wilsdorf settling down in Geneva, Switzerland as Rolex Watch Company, which is where Rolex made today. Later the brand would become Montres Rolex, SA and finally Rolex, SA.
Wilsdorf had been creating watches for just 21 years before the seminal release of the Rolex Oyster case in 1926. It was to be a game-changing model. With that release, the company was at once placed on a stratospheric trajectory. Marketed as the world’s first waterproof watch (although the brand, along with most others in the industry, prefers to use the term water-resistant these days), the Oyster case was a revelation. Not only was it up to the prescribed task, but it also boasted an iconic aesthetic thanks to the fluted bezel and caseback, which had been included for practical reasons: The notches on the bezel and caseback enabled both components to be screwed down to the middle case using a special tool invented by Rolex, thus hermetically sealing the case.
So confident in its ability to keep the inner workings of a movement dry was Wilsdorf, that he implored famous Channel swimmer, Mercedes Gleitze to wear one around her neck on her ill-fated Chanel crossing attempt of 1927. Although Gleitze didn’t make it to France on that occasion (she would do so later that year), the watch performed admirably, keeping excellent time throughout the entire swim, and not allowing a single drop of water to ingress.
Five years later, Wilsdorf achieved his own personal Holy Grail - the creation of a self-winding wristwatch. 1931 saw the debut of the first Oyster Perpetual model offered for sale- a model name that still graces many Rolex dials today. The combination of the water-resistant and dust-proof case, along with an automatic movement secured Wilsdorf's finest creation a place in the pantheon of great watchmaking advancements.
What followed over the next 50 years was a series of model releases that would go on to define the watchmaking landscape for a generation. Each release by the now-storied brand became a classic.
The 1940s brought us the prolific Datejust model. Less than a decade after that significant release, the Submariner followed in 1953. Two years later, the first GMT-Master debuted. Before the decade was out, the Day-Date and the Milgauss had joined the Rolex ranks.
Along with creating Rolex, Wilsdorf also founded the high-quality yet lower priced Tudor brand of watches. This subsidiary company was founded in 1946. Wilsdorf continued to grow both companies and produce quality and innovative timepieces until his death in 1960. It is often possible for a brand to consume the reputation of its founder, but in the early years, and, even up until his death in 1960, Wilsdorf was an active, driving force within his company, and his personality was stamped on every product produced on his watch.
The '60s got off to a bang with the launch of the Deep-Sea Extra Special (which would give rise to the extant Sea-Dweller first released in 1967). Between those two aquatic releases, the very first Cosmograph Daytona hit the shelves in 1963. 1971 saw the release of the Explorer II, the first of two iconic updates to existing models in the catalog. The second such update came in 1982 with the release of the GMT-Master II, which has gone on to be one of the most sought after models produced by the brand.
Since the heyday of new model releases, the Yacht-Master, and Pearlmaster (both 1992), the Yacht-Master II (2007), the DeepSea (2008), the Datejust II (2009), and the Sky-Dweller (2012) have also joined the party. These modern Rolex watches, designed for a new age, utilize Rolex’s high-quality materials and in-house movements and are a testament to the know-how accumulated through years of graft and a tireless desire to innovate.
The Hans Wilsdorf Foundation
In 1944, Hans Wilsdorf created the Hans Wilsdorf foundation after the death of his wife. Mr. Wilsdorf left all of his shares to the foundation insuring that some of the companies income would go to good works. To this day the Rolex company is still owned by a trust and is not publicly traded.
There are several surprising things about the foundation of Rolex that are often overlooked. Firstly, although one might assume Wilsdorf was Swiss, he was actually German-born. Hailing from Bavaria, the young Wilsdorf first entered the watchmaking industry while working in La Chaux-de-Fonds. He became convinced very early on, that wristwatches (which still played second fiddle to pocket watches in those days) would become far more popular provided their construction could be adequately shored up to withstand the rigors of daily life.
Secondly, the company that would give birth to the Rolex legend was (believe it or not) founded in London, while Wilsdorf was living there. In 1905, he registered the company name Wilsdorf & Davis and listed the company's prime concern as the distribution of wristwatches throughout Great Britain and the British Empire. At that time, Wilsdorf had all his company's components produced by Swiss manufacturers, most notably, the Maison Aegler in Bienne. This was the only manufacture Wilsdorf deemed adept enough at producing parts to the quality he desired. Eventually, this factory would become Manufacture des Montres Rolex S.A.
Innovations
The Rolex Company has been in business since 1902 and has a long history of innovative and successful watch designs. Rolex had many firsts including being the first company to offer a wristwatch that would automatically change the date and day on the dial, the first watch case that was waterproof up to 100 m, the first wristwatch to display two time zones at once and the first wristwatch to earn chronometer certification. Some of the numerous innovations include:
- 1910 - The first wristwatch to receive the Swiss Certificate of Chronometric Precision
- 1926 - Rolex had another breakthrough by inventing and producing the first waterproof wrist watch. From this watch was born the famous Oyster collection which is still being produced today.
- 1945 - First watch to have an automatic date on the watch dial.
- 1954 - First timepiece to display two time zones
- 1956 - The Day-Date is born as first watch to display both day and date on dial
- 2012 - The first wristwatch to have a command bezel designed for multiple uses
Movements
Previous to 1931 Rolex produced watches that required manual winding. In 1931, however, a self-winding model was offered called the "bubbleback." The watch used movement from the wearer's arm to drive the self-winding component. The new self-winding technology not only made it more convenient but also made time keeping more reliable.
During the late 1960's as well as 1970's the engineers at Rolex were critical to the quartz movement technology. Rolex collaborated with 16 manufacturers where they were eventually able to produce the Beta 21 quartz movement, found in the Rolex Quartz Date reference 5100. Continuing their efforts, within five years the clean-slate 5035/5055 movement was produced and used in the Rolex Oysterquartz.
How Many Watches Does Rolex Produce Annually?
Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) statistics reveal that Rolex produces around 700,000 mechanical chronometers every year.
Watch Models Rolex Currently Produces
Rolex has produced countless watches over its long history. Just do a quick search for shop used Rolex watches and you will find a number a variations that include both vintage and modern variations. While some have been discontinued and are now considered vintage and collectible, other modern models are continuously developed and offered to the public.
There are a wide range of Rolex models that are geared towards specific types of wearers. For example, if you enjoy swimming and diving, the Rolex Submariner may be the best option for you. This model is specifically designed to withstand water pressure and remain accurate. If you enjoy racing, the Rolex Daytona is a better option. The Daytona was specifically designed for racing enthusiasts and is even named after one of the most popular annual racing events.
In Rolex's Oyster Collection they currently offer the following models:
- Datejust
- Datejust II
- Datejust Lady 31
- Datejust Pearlmaster 34
- Day-Date
- Day-Date II
- Cosmograph Daytona
- Rolex Deepsea
- Explorer
- Explorer II
- GMT-Master II
- Lady-Datejust
- Lady-Datejust Pearlmaster
- Milgauss
- Oyster Perpetual
- Sea-Dweller 4000
- Submariner
- Sky-Dweller
- Yacht-Master
- Yacht-Master II
In Rolex's new Cellini Collection the following models are offered:
- Cellini Time
- Cellini Date
- Cellini Dual Time
- Cellini Rolex Prince
The History of Rolex: A Timeless Heritage
Rolex is a brand that is synonymous with luxury, craftsmanship, and innovation. Founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf, Rolex has a long and storied history that has made it one of the most respected and admired watch brands in the world.
Wilsdorf and his brother-in-law Alfred Davis had already established their own shop and were importing Swiss movements and placing them in quality cases. But Wilsdorf wanted more.
He envisioned a name for his timepieces that would be easy to remember and pronounce in any language. He called it Rolex. One theory is that he believed the name "Rolex" was onomatopoeic, which sounded like a watch being wound. He registered the name and quickly opened an office in Switzerland and by 1915 the name Rolex was registered.
The most important factor to the Rolex Company in creating these new watches was that the movements be of the highest quality. This chronometric precision that the makers of Rolex watches insisted upon was what catapulted the company's rapid ascent. Rolex soon received the Swiss Certificate of Chronometric Precision, granted by the Official Watch Rating Centre in Bienne – the first wristwatch in the world to receive this prestigious mark.
Rolex timepieces were then honored with Great Britain's Kew Observatory's Class A precision certificate. From that moment on, these quality watches became synonymous with precision.
The Early Years
Hans Wilsdorf was born in Germany in 1881 and moved to London in the early 1900s. He founded Wilsdorf & Davis in 1905, a company that specialized in importing and distributing Swiss-made watches. At the time, wristwatches were not yet widely accepted, and most people still wore pocket watches.
Wilsdorf saw the potential for wristwatches to become more popular, and he set out to create a line of high-quality, reliable wristwatches that would appeal to a wider audience. In 1908, he registered the trademark "Rolex," a combination of the French word "horlogerie," meaning "watchmaking," and the English word "excellence."
In 1910, Rolex introduced its first wristwatch, the "Oyster," which featured a waterproof case. The Oyster was an immediate hit, and it helped to establish Rolex as a leader in the watch industry.
In 1914, Rolex introduced its first automatic movement, the "Perpetual," which was the first self-winding mechanism to be used in a wristwatch. The Perpetual movement was a major innovation, and it helped to make Rolex watches even more reliable and accurate.
The Interwar Years
The company moved to Geneva in 1920, and Rolex began waterproofing its timepieces. Given the name the Oyster, this watch featured a hermetically sealed case, providing optimal protection. Proving its amazing craftsmanship, the first Rolex lasted 10 hours in the water, when Mercedes Gleitze, a young English swimmer, crossed the English Channel wearing her Rolex. The watch was in perfect working condition when she arrived on shore.
Throughout the years, motorsports, aviation and other sporting expeditions were the real-life laboratories that tested the quality of Rolex watches. Of course, the brand always exceeded even the loftiest aspirations.
In the 1920s and 1930s, Rolex continued to innovate and push the boundaries of watchmaking. In 1926, the company introduced the "Bubbleback," a watch with a larger case that helped to improve the accuracy of the movement.
In 1933, Rolex introduced the "Datejust," the first wristwatch with an automatic date display. The Datejust was a major milestone in the history of Rolex, and it helped to cement the company's reputation as a pioneer in watchmaking.
In 1936, Rolex introduced the "Oyster Perpetual," a watch with a waterproof case and an automatic movement. The Oyster Perpetual was a major success, and it became one of the most iconic models in the Rolex lineup.
The Post-War Years
In the 1950s and 1960s, Rolex continued to innovate and expand its product line. In 1953, the company introduced the "GMT-Master," a watch with a dual-time zone function that was designed for pilots. The GMT-Master was a major success, and it helped to further solidify Rolex's reputation as a leading brand in the world of sports and adventure.
In 1953, the Submariner was launched as the first divers' watch. This masterpiece was waterproof to a depth of 100 meters, or 330 feet, while its rotatable bezel allowed divers to read their immersion time. Stainless steel 904L is utilized in high technology, aerospace and chemical industries, where maximum resistance to corrosion is essential, and this is the material Rolex uses for its steel watch cases. This super alloy is extremely resistant and highly polishable, while maintaining elegance during the harshest conditions.
More than 60 years after its unveiling, the Submariner is still a favorite among divers. Updated with improved water resistance, new movements, and numerous small cosmetic changes, this watch can now reach 300 meters, or 1,000 feet, under water. Rolex celebrated the watch’s 50th anniversary by launching the Rolex Submariner-Date anniversary edition (Model 16610) in 2003. This collector’s edition includes distinguishing features such as a green bezel and Maxi dial; in 2008 a new case from the GMT II was introduced for the Submariner-Date, which includes heavier lugs and a crown guard. A cerachrome bezel and updated clasp featuring a quick adjust function were also added.
When you read about the rich history of Rolex, and the unparalleled status of its iconic timepieces, like the Submariner, it's easy to see why so many yearn for this brand and its products. More often than not, however, many admirers have a hard time wrapping their head around the hefty price tag that comes with a new Rolex. Before the age of the Internet, it was hard to find pre-owned Rolex watches in excellent condition. But these days, it's different. Customers from around the world trust the online service of Bob's Watches.
In 1955, Rolex introduced the "Day-Date," the first wristwatch to feature a date display and the day of the week written in full on the dial. The Day-Date was a major innovation, and it helped to establish Rolex as a leader in the world of luxury
In 1960, Rolex introduced the "Cosmograph Daytona," a watch that was designed for racing drivers. The Daytona became an instant classic, and it remains one of the most iconic and sought-after models in the Rolex lineup.
In the 1970s, Rolex continued to innovate and expand its product line. The company introduced several new models, including the "Sea-Dweller," a watch designed for deep-sea diving, and the "Explorer II," a watch designed for exploration and adventure.
In the 1980s and 1990s, Rolex continued to thrive, thanks to its reputation for high-quality craftsmanship and innovation. The company released several new models, including the "Yacht-Master," a watch designed for sailing and yachting, and the "Datejust II," a modern update of the classic Datejust model.
In the 21st century, Rolex has continued to be a leader in the watch industry, thanks to its commitment to innovation and its dedication to the highest standards of craftsmanship. Today, the company produces a wide range of watches, including sports watches, dress watches, and classic timepieces, all of which are renowned for their quality and reliability.
In summary, Rolex has a long and rich history that has made it one of the most respected and admired watch brands in the world. The company's commitment to innovation, craftsmanship, and excellence has helped it to establish itself as a leader in the world of luxury timepieces, and it continues to be a pioneer in the industry today.
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