Audemars Piguet Rainbow Royal Oak Collection
The brand rang in the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary in 2022 in rather grand fashion by releasing impressive one-off “rainbow” collections of gem-set white gold Royal Oaks in both 37mm (ref. 15554BC) and 41mm (ref. 15514BC) sizes. Each is covered in a different single type of gemstone, so it’s only when set side by side that the ten watches create a vibrant rainbow.
Each dial is covered in a field of 152 carefully selected baguette-cut stones (in different sizes depending on the case size) to mirror the Royal Oak’s signature “Tapisserie” waffle dial. You’ll also notice that there are no hour markers, a design choice meant to keep the spotlight on the gemstones themselves. More baguette-cut stones spill outward onto the bezel, crown, case, and bracelet. In total, the 41mm model is covered in 861 gems in 179 different sizes, and the 37mm model is adorned with 790 stones in 153 different sizes.
As if that weren’t remarkable enough already, AP has chosen unconventional watchmaking stones for the rainbow collection. Rather than a simple gradient of sapphires, they’ve used Tanzanites, pink tourmalines, amethysts, blue topaz, and yellow chrysoberyls, just to name a few. The gemstones look like they’re floating on the watch, an illusion achieved using a sophisticated invisible gem-setting technique; each stone has a small incision that snaps securely onto a hidden rail in the gold settings.
Hublot Big Bang Integrated King Gold Rainbow
Hubolts design philosophy centers around the concept of “Art of Fusion,” which often celebrates unorthodox design elements. So, naturally, the brand also joined in on the rainbow mania beginning in 2017. Recently, Hublot graced us with a dazzling duo of Rainbow Big Bang models with integrated bracelets, one with a time-only movement (ref. 456.OX.0180.OX.3999) and one with a chronograph movement (ref. 451.OX.1180.OX.3999). Their “Art of Fusion” ideology embraces the pairing of precious and non-precious materials in watches Hublot has done that here by incorporating their proprietary warm-tone King Gold with rubber accents. The colourful jewels in various sizes and shapes put this stunning duo over the top in a way only a rainbow watch could.
The Big Bang Integrated Time Only King Gold Rainbow ref. 456.OX.0180.OX.3999 is dripping in a sea of 176 gemstones on the case and an astonishing 748 gemstones on the bracelet, each placed in a perfect rainbow gradation. Even though Hublot has crowned this a “time only” model, it has a date at 6 o’clock. Besides that minor detail, the dial is relatively clean and uncluttered, particularly compared to its chronograph counterpart. The tabs on either side of the case are covered in black rubber to represent the brand’s signature fusion of materials. It’s also worth noting that the time-only model is slightly smaller, measuring 40mm in diameter and around 10mm thick, and is powered by the caliber HUB1710 self-winding mechanical movement.
The Big Bang Integrated King Gold Rainbow ref. 451.OX.1180.OX.3999 is similar to the time-only model, featuring 174 gemstones on the case and 768 on the bracelet. The dial looks a bit busier than the time-only model, and understandably so. Two chronograph sub-dials flank either side of the case, one at 3 o’clock accompanied by a date window and the other at 9 o’clock. This watch is also more robust, measuring 42mm in diameter and just over 13mm thick, and houses the caliber HUB1280 Unico self-winding chronograph movement.